Creative, seasonal contemporary plates served in a low-lit, stylish setting with a full bar.
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Neighborhood Takeout & Restaurant: The Way Back Denver
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Reviews
Very unique and powerful flavors though. You could definitely taste the quality and ‘freshness’.
“The Way Back” is a fairly new restaurant that brings together sustainable local ingredients to create both old Comfort foods and modern dishes served in a tapas-style experience.
Just thinking of the name, I thought the decor would be similar to that of Annie’s Cafe. I was anticipating a nostalgic throwback to the 1950s. Yet the architectural style of the bar reminds me of the early turn of the century, while the uniforms of the waitstaff and bartenders could be from many decades within the mid-twentieth century — they all wear floral print shirts and blouses. There are accent walls of floral patterned wallpapered as well. The front part of the establishment is mostly covered in black paint and reminds one of a speakeasy. However the back of the house, is a more formal setting with white linens.
We had recently heard our friends raving over their fried chicken, so we decided to give it a try last Saturday. After opening the OpenTable app and finding that there were no reservations available anytime Saturday evening, I decided to give them a call. The hostess assured me if I came on the early side during the happy hour which was from 4 to 6 p.m., she could probably get us a table in the front section. She did; we had a nice booth close to the bar.
We were able to take advantage of some of the happy hour selections and prices including $5 whiskey sours, a bread-and-butter appetizer for only $3, and an exquisitely prepared veggie plate for only $6. The veggie plate had unique heirloom-style vegetables. What looked like a couple of a really long and skinny pink carrots ended up being Cincinnati red turnips. The plate also included white baby turnips, endives, cucumbers, and a nice dill-flavored dip.
I ordered one of the specials of the day which comprised of hand-rolled pappardelle pasta, oyster mushrooms, ramps, and a three-year aged cheddar cheese from Durango’s Jackson Farms. The fresh pasta was cooked al dente and paired perfectly with the sharp and decadent creamy flavors of the rest of the dish. It was remarkably filling for a small plate of pasta with no meat. However, for $19 I feel it was a little on the pricey side for a tapas plate. Bob, of course, ordered the fried chicken that everyone had raved about. It was actually really really good. The battered skin of the chicken was incredible. There must be a few sweet ingredients in the batter that give the skin a sweet and savory, yet very crispy finish. I thought the chicken was cooked perfectly to my taste, but some that like their chicken cooked well would have been disappointed by a few pieces that looked a little pink. Again the price seems a little high at $19 for two legs and a thigh. It was served with hot sauce, which is a southern way of serving chicken known as Southern Hot Chicken, and bread & butter pickeks.
Our fun and sassy waitress encouraged us to get a “side” plate as well. Since they were out of their collard greens, the cook had substituted them with a creamed-spinach option. The creme fraiche sauce with a touch of nutmeg elevated the traditionally simple side dish to a more adult option.
We were surprised that we were actually full with only ordering these two larger tapas plates and the side of spinach. This could get pretty expensive in a larger group where a lot of plates would need to be purchased.
Another dish that I have heard good things about, but was not able to try, is the squid ink fettuccine.
Overall, it was a great experience, and I anticipate going back for happy hour during a First Friday on Tennyson night.
I had the pork belly, which she described as a deconstructed BLT (or bacon tofu she said haha). It tasted great and I ate every last bit of it. So tender and the tomatoes and lettuce were grilled perfectly.
My wife had the pappardelle pasta with summer squash and loved it. I tried it and agreed. The homemade pasta was soft and flavorful.
We also got the broccolini side dish which was delicious.
We will tell everyone we know about this place and keep it on our “fancy” list.
The drink menu is solid, our whole table enjoyed their drinks..
Overall okay but probably not coming back.